EYELASH EXTENSIONS THROUGH HISTORY: FROM ANCIENT EGYPT TO MODERN BEAUTY TRENDS

Lash extensions have come a long way from their earliest origins. What we see today —meticulously crafted volume lash fans, wispy spikes, and ultra-thin eyelash extensions fibers — are the result of centuries of beauty innovation.

But where did it all begin? Let’s take a journey through time and see how eyelash enhancements have evolved into the artistry we know today.

Ancient Egypt: the first beauty trendsetters

The Egyptians were pioneers of beauty and self-expression. Both men and women darkened their lashes using kohl made from galena, a mineral that not only defined the eyes but was also believed to offer protection from evil spirits and harsh sunlight. The desire for long, dark lashes wasn’t just about aesthetics—it had spiritual significance, too.

The Romans: lashes as a sign of virtue

Moving forward to ancient Rome, long lashes were linked to purity and chastity. Historian Pliny the Elder even wrote that eyelashes would fall out due to excessive intimate activity, leading women to seek ways to make them appear fuller and longer. They used burnt cork, soot, and even crushed minerals to enhance their lashes, proving that the obsession with full, dark eyelashes has been around for millennia.

 

 

The 1800s: sewing lashes into eyelids (yes, really!)

If you think applying volume eyelash extensions for hours is a challenge, imagine having your lashes sewn into your eyelids! In 1899, a Parisian doctor performed this procedure by threading individual hairs through the lash line. While this method sounds terrifying today, it was an early attempt at the semi-permanent lash enhancements we use now.

1911–1920s: strip lashes & the rise of Hollywood glamour

In 1911, American inventor Anna Taylor patented artificial strip lashes, an early version of what we now call false eyelashes. These lashes were applied just above the lash line for a dramatic effect. In 1916, director D.W. Griffith had custom lashes made for actress Seena Owen to enhance her eyes on film.

By 1927, legendary makeup artist Max Factor improved the concept, crafting more wearable strip lashes using fringe trims glued to thread. Actress Phyllis Haver was among the first to flaunt them, sparking envy and admiration across Hollywood.

 Fun fact:

Max Factor’s real name was Maksymilian Faktorowicz, a former makeup assistant at Moscow’s Bolshoi Theatre who later became the founder of the iconic Max Factor brand—the world’s first professional makeup line.

 

Late 20th century: the birth of individual lash extensions

While strip lashes remained popular, the late 1990s and early 2000s marked a turning point in eyelash extension history thanks to beauty innovators in Japan and South Korea.

They developed the lash-by-lash application method: a more natural, precise alternative to strip lashes. This new technique allowed each extension to be applied to an individual natural lash using specially formulated adhesive, offering longer retention and a customizable lash look.

This was especially revolutionary for Asian women, whose lashes tend to be straighter and less visible due to unique eyelid shapes. Lash-by-lash extensions became a total game-changer, and even today, the technique is often referred to as "Japanese Lash-by-Lash."

One standout moment came in 2003, when lash artist Shu Uemura gifted Madonna with a customized set of lash extensions, making waves in the Western beauty industry.

2005: the birth of russian volume

Around 2005, Russian lash artist Olga Dobronravova began experimenting with applying 2 or more ultra-fine eyelash extensions to a single natural lash to create feather-light, voluminous sets. Thus, Russian Volume lashes was born. Originally, all fans were hand-crafted on the spot, a tradition still followed by many technicians today across Europe.

Her student, Irina Levchuk, helped popularize the method globally by launching some of the first international training programs for volume lashing. While she didn’t invent the technique, she became widely recognized as a key figure in its expansion.

Volume eyelash extensions transformed the industry. No longer limited to 1:1 application, artists could now offer clients tailored lash volume, texture, and density—laying the groundwork for what was to come.

The era of mega volume lashes (2010s)

As demand grew, so did the lashes. The 2010s introduced mega volume lashes—a style using ultra-fine 0.03-0.05mm lash extensions to apply 6D and even 10D fans per lash. Artists embraced the challenge, creating bold, airy, and dramatic sets that made a statement. It was a time of fearless creativity and technical mastery.

If you’re keen to keep session times down without sacrificing drama, check out these time-saving lash extensions techniques.

These dramatic styles earned new names: Hollywood Volume, Queen Lashes, Velvet Sets, all pointing to next-level glam. But at its core, it was still the Russian Volume technique, refined and reimagined.

Current trends: the influence of celebrity culture

In recent years, trends have taken a softer turn, influenced heavily by celebrities like the Kardashian-Jenner sisters. The wispy lash trend, featuring staggered lengths and textured spikes, became the ultimate look.

Another soft-glam shift on the rise is the brown lash extensions trend, showing how warm neutrals are overtaking jet-black sets.

Soon after, the wet look lash style gained popularity, mimicking the effect of freshly applied mascara for a natural yet defined appearance. And let’s not forget the resurgence of lash lifts—a more low-maintenance alternative to eyelash extensions that enhances natural lashes with a semi-permanent curl.

Where do we go from here?

As lash artists, it’s incredible to see how far our industry has come. From kohl-rimmed eyes in Ancient Egypt to today’s hyper-customized lash sets, one thing is clear: lashes will always be a beauty staple. The future of eyelash extensions will likely continue evolving with advancements in techniques, materials, and client preferences. Who knows? Maybe the next big innovation is just around the corner (let's keep an eye on UV lash glue and 2d printed lash extensions).

In the meantime, explore our Charisma Eyelash Extensions collection for ultra-fine fibres that keep you ahead of today’s volume trends.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Written by a multi-award-winning lash artist, international judge, and trusted educator at The Lash Box Shop — with years of hands-on experience helping professional lash artists improve their precision, speed, and confidence behind the tweezers.